Our Bespoke Process
We have created many bespoke pieces over the years, from bridal jewellery to gifts to commemorate important events to creative ideas made real. Our process involves you at every step along the way.
How to Start
Each project begins with discussions where we will ask you to share visuals and any ideas you might have (photos of the sea, paintings, and natural materials have all been shared as inspiration besides photographs of jewellery!) It’s important we know about what gems or gem colours you might be interested in as well as metal or metal colours if you already have a preference. We will also need to know if you have a deadline and any budget in mind so we can present options that meet your requirements.
Timeline
Bespoke work generally takes 8-12 weeks to complete, though it is possible for a project to take longer. We keep a curated range of sapphire, diamond, zircon and opal in our collection. We prioritise ethics in our sourcing, so if you are looking for something specific, we may need time to ensure we can find a source that aligns with our values.
We will do our best to adhere to any timelines discussed at your initial meeting. That said, we prioritise quality, craftsmanship, and precision over speed. To help us meet any deadline you might have, your timely response will help us move through the phases of production.
Your Design
After you have shared inspiration for your piece, we will invite you in to discuss design specifics, and view possible stone options. We can also take this meeting remotely if it is more convenient for you, sending images of stones to you beforehand so we can look at the options together.
Deposit
After these discussions, we’ll have the design established and be able to provide you with an estimate for your project. We will ask for 30% of our estimate as a deposit to begin work hand carving your piece.
Estimates are valid for 30 days. Deposits are non-refundable and cover time spent creating the wax model of your ring, consults, renderings, wax views, and holding or importing any gems involved with the design.
Our Method
All of our jewellery is created through the ancient process of “lost wax casting.” In this method, Tatiana will carve and melt wax to sculpt a model of your piece, perfectly fitted to any gems that you have selected. This model can then be viewed in the shop or we can send you photos, adjusting the design until you are happy with the result. You can choose how much or little texture to add and where. When the wax model is complete, we will weigh it and can establish the final price based on metal required and provide you with a final invoice. Payment of this invoice is required before we cast the piece, and at this stage the order can no longer be cancelled or refunded.
The piece then goes to the casting house where it is surrounded by plaster which is then fired at a temperature high enough to burn out the wax. This leaves a negative space precisely the same size, shape, and texture as the model which can then be filled with molten metal.
Recycling Heirloom Jewellery
Generally many pieces are cast together in a single large flask, but for a premium, we can monopolise the casting machine and cast a single piece by itself in a small flask. Because of this, if you have heirloom items that aren’t your style, we can recycle both your metal and stones into something you truly love. It isn't always less costly than using new metal but it can be, and we understand that sentimental value is very important.
Please note we do not accept liability for client’s own stones that were not sourced by us as we cannot be held responsible for existing inclusions or damage to stones that may only be visible once unseated from your heirloom. We will do our best to advise you on settings and / or maintenance that might help to protect them for many years to come.
The Assay Office + Hallmarking
Once a piece is cast and returned to us, we prepare it for its hallmarks. These are a UK legal requirement, but they also add to the story of your piece.
A hallmark includes our maker’s mark and the leopard head mark of the London Assay Office, so you know who made the piece and where the mark was applied. Next is the fineness mark that guarantees the material is the precious metal you have chosen, and the traditional fineness symbol goes next to it – a heraldic lion for Sterling Silver, a crown for Gold, an orb for Platinum, and the head of Pallas Athene in profile for Palladium. Finally, the year mark is applied, a letter in a geometric shape that changes each year, which tells you when the ring was made.
Finishing Touches
After hallmarking, we do some more work on it to prepare for setting if needed. Setting is a fine art in and of itself, and we are very selective about who sets our work. For this reason we may wait up to two weeks for the setting to be completed.
After setting, your piece will have a final polish and clean, and then it is ready to be worn!
Begin Your Commission
Our pieces are as individual as our clients. It’s a pleasure to see a piece come together that perfectly suits its wearer. To begin your project with us, please get in touch by emailing arrow@wearearrow.com. You can also phone us on +44 7861 688 410 if you have any questions.